Jeanne Paquin Coat‑Cape, Paris, ca. 1898 – Cream Wool, Floral Embroidery & Pagoda Sleeves

Jeanne Paquin & Fashion House History

An exceptional coat‑cape by French fashion designer Jeanne Paquin, dating to circa 1898. Label: Paquin · 3 Rue de la Paix. Jeanne Paquin — also known as Madame Paquin (1869–1936) — was one of the first internationally celebrated female fashion designers. After training at the Paris salon of Christoph Drecoll, she founded her own couture house in 1891, attracting elite clients such as the Queen of Belgium and Wallis Simpson.

Paquin became renowned for luxurious evening gowns, fur‑trimmed suits and coats, and her sensational tango dresses of 1913. Her work defined Parisian fashion for more than three decades and remains central to the history of Belle‑Époque couture.

Construction & Materials

The coat is crafted from cream thin wool, enriched with colour‑coordinated floral embroidery and openwork that enhance its refined appearance. Key couture features include:

• Large pagoda sleeves with two flounces

• Incorporated small cape with implied collar

• Three rows of flounces along the hem

• Interior lined with cream silk

• Two inside pockets — one specifically designed for a stroll umbrella, an extraordinarily rare detail; the second for a handkerchief, small items, or change

• Front closure with hooks and eyes

• Braided decorative element on the back with three hanging tassels

This is the first time in all these years that we have encountered an inside umbrella pocket in a Paquin garment — a remarkable and highly collectible couture detail.

The coat‑cape is in very good to excellent condition, with only one small stain on the front right side of the cape. The decoration shown in some images is not included.

Historical Context & Fashion Significance

Around 1898, couture outerwear evolved toward architectural silhouettes, ornamented sleeves, and layered capes. Paquin’s designs stood at the forefront of this movement, blending innovation, luxury, and practical elegance. This coat‑cape exemplifies her mastery of:

• sculptural sleeve design

• subtle tonal embellishment

• functional yet refined tailoring

• Parisian couture craftsmanship at the height of the Belle Époque

For collectors of Haute Couture, Paquin garments, and museum‑quality Belle‑Époque fashion, this piece represents an extraordinary acquisition.

Measurements

• Front length: approx. 115 cm

• Back length: approx. 120 cm

• Shoulder: approx. 38 cm

• Bust: approx. 90 cm